American Death Triangle!

Ultra-Jive-Ass American Death Triangle

Ultra-Jive-Ass American Death Triangle

Whoa! This is so, so awesome! One rarely sees American Death Triangles anymore. This submission is from Ray Belt, who ran across this anchor at Joshua Tree. Given how Ultra-Jive-Ass it is, he naturally had to snap a photo. He won’t reveal who built this monstrosity  because, well, it’s just the right thing to do. We don’t want to embarrass people here. We just want to learn! Here is Ray’s description:

“It’s hard to tell but we actually have four pieces in this mess… the two hexes are set up “opposite and opposed” but clipped to the same biner that attaches to the bottom of the red “american triangle” webbing… all in all, this anchor would have done a fair job at it’s primary purpose (first piece to prevent a zipper) but wow! Not gonna tell you who put this one together… (!)”

Location: Joshua Tree National Park, California

5 thoughts on “American Death Triangle!

  1. Friend

    Steve, please be careful with putting people down who built these anchors. We all make mistakes at times when pumped, scared, or out of gear. I think that unless this blog has a very obvious “helpful” feeling to the verbiage then nobody will be willing to email you pics of questionable setups for fear of humiliation. I know you and I know you want nothing more than to be helpful – please just make that obvious in the descriptions so this blog has a chance of becoming a gathering place for questionable anchors.

    1. Steve Post author

      I appreciate the concern, friend. I’d hoped I’d made it obvious in this very post (American Death Triangle) that we don’t want to embarrass or humiliate anyone. And to my knowledge, I’ve never put anyone down in this blog. And this is also why I’ll never, ever name or identify the builder of any Jive-Ass anchor–unless for some reason the builder requested identification. I agree that it’s key to keep identities anonymous so as not to embarrass. The point is to learn from these examples, not to poke fun. That said, I do believe that there is value in becoming a connoisseur of poorly constructed anchors, and enthusiastically reveling in their Jive-Assness (so long as the critique never becomes ad hominem). I think that’s what turns what could otherwise be a dry and pedantic exercise into something fun. And if people find joy in critically and enthusiastically seeking out Jive-Ass anchors they will, in the process hopefully, become practitioners of carefully evaluated and well constructed anchors. That’s my hope anyway.

  2. anon

    Use of the triangle in this situation is actually not incorrect. The opposing passive pieces are pulled together by the resultant forces, wedging them tighter. This way, no matter the direction of the fall, the force will be shared by the pieces, and will be in the correct direction for both pieces, reducing chance of pieces slipping out. John Long illustrated this exact method in “More Climbing Anchors”, and I’ve used it myself when presented with similar situations.

    1. Dan

      Sure it’s a 4 piece anchor with 2 pieces upside down, but it’s not really an American death triangle. There is no force multplication on this anchor. If you pull down on it, you will just end up pulling on that top piece.

  3. Pingback: American Death Triangle! | Alyson E Gregory

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