Are You Proud of Your Anchor?

Martial Dumas is super proud of his anchor.

Martial Dumas is super proud of his anchor.

Petzl produced a nice mixed climbing video several years ago, filmed in characteristically (so I am told) terrible conditions on Ben Nevis. In it, Petzel athlete Martial Dumas pridefully “owns” his anchor is a way that’s both humorous, but also kind of awesome. The dialogue is as follows (if you’re a Francophone you don’t need the subtitles):

“Martial Dumas”
“Are you proud of your anchor?”
“Super proud.”

What’s great about Martial’s proud pronouncement is that the anchor building conditions are far from ideal. He’s got two hexes in an icy crack (always a somewhat sketchy proposition), statically equalized with a spectra sling. In short, he makes due with what he’s got to work with.

This conversation happens in the video at 6:40. Check it out here:

I’d like to suggest that when whenever you build an anchor you should imagine that upon completion an interviewer will show up with a camera and ask you if you are proud of your anchor. If you build your anchor with a view to being able to exclaim with pride and confidence “super proud!”, I suspect you’ll end up constructing a pretty good anchor.

Location: Ben Nevis, Scotland

2 thoughts on “Are You Proud of Your Anchor?

  1. Pingback: Skye to Ben Nevis ~ August 4, 2011 | JLO Travels

  2. Forrest

    Even more scary than someone showing up with a camera is the idea I’ll climb and lower or rappel from the anchor, literally I’ll live or die by my work.

    I try to get a little bit more safety into mine than the standard practice, when I have the time and gear. These days I really like the wrap three pull two anchor when there’s a stout and well-rooted tree available.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s