Helmet Chock Anchor


Jive-Ass Helmet Chock Anchor

Jive-Ass Helmet Chock Anchor

This “unnatural pro” is awesome scary, and awesome jive-ass. I don’t even know if its for real. Apparently someone submitted it to the I Love Climbing community Facebook Page, and several climbing buddies ended up forwarded it to me.  I Love Climbing also has a website, if you’re interested.

At any rate, traditional rock climbers all have at least one or two tales of desperation in their repertoire of climbing stories. Shit happens, and we deal with it in the moment, and hopefully we live to climb wiser in the future. But shoving your climbing helmet into an off-width crack as a piece of trad pro? That’s certainly the most desperate of desperate measures, in par with last month’s Leather Belt Anchor. How many kilo-newtons of force can a plastic rock climbing helmet withstand when slung as a chock stone? You know what? We’ll probably never know, because who in the heck would ever think to test such a thing? I’d certainly hate to take a fall on that thing.

Location: Unknown.

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4 thoughts on “Helmet Chock Anchor

  1. michael

    Helmets them selves are quite strong, we parked a Dualcab Toyota Hilux on top of 4 old Petzl helmets successfully. Failure of the helmets only occurred when the rocked the use back and forth. check out the video below.

    Reply
  2. Adam Taylor (@upandadam)

    I don’t think the helmet itself would even get a chance to be tested. It looks like the helmet is just slung through a ventilation hole. So really the whole thing rests on a thin piece of plastic . Definitely not going to withstand even a 1kn fall. The time it took to set this up would be better spent just running it out and getting the hell out of there.

    Reply
    1. Jason

      the only way the helmet itself could be tested would be to have a monkey fist tied, inside the helmet of reasonable diameter to load most of the helmet..

      Reply
  3. ghisino

    lol i belayed the guy who did this!

    we were a team of 3 on the 1st pitch of OW fest “Nirvana” in Bavella, corsica, france.
    this was 3 easy meters from the belay and we could not see the leader…we could only hear “bong bong bong” …i thought he found a stone loosely jammed in the crack and he was trying to test it before slinging it.

    actually my bet is that the helmet would have had a chance to stop a moderate fall if slung properly (all around). A few OW routes in france are actually famous for the use of helmets as pro (this was in the 60’s and 70’s, when large cams did not exist and helmets were stiffer ans sturdier)

    Reply

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