Monthly Archives: September 2014

Girth Hitch Insanity

Sling to sling to sling girth hitch insanity: a climbing anchor.

Sling to sling to sling girth hitch insanity: a climbing anchor.

Justin Rotherham took this shot at Smith Rock a few weeks back. A seemingly infinite chain of girth hitched webbing. We’ve discussed the whole girth hitching webbing thing in the past here and here. This one isn’t necessarily all that dangerous, for the simple reason that the girth hitched monstrosity is a ‘back up’ for a presumably more proper climbing anchor. But it definitely qualifies as Jive-Ass (in this case, of the ‘overkill’ variety).

In Justin’s words [emphasis is mine], “This sling to sling to sling girth hitch insanity was a back up to a 2 quickdraw top rope set up.  The sling ‘back up’ was attached to the anchor for the next route over with another non-locking biner.  The other end of the sling had a quicklink that they had threaded the rope through after clipping the draws.”

Yeah, some times people go a little overboard with their redundancy. Apparently two bolts (two bolts!) weren’t enough for top roping (top roping!). And thus jive-assery was required.

Parting words or wisdom from Justin: “These are bolted anchors people!  Quit trying to make it harder than it needs to be.”

Location: Smith Rock State Park, Oregon, USA

Jive-Ass Snow Picket

Jive-Ass Snow Picket

Jive-Ass Snow Picket

Check out this Jive-Ass, Old-Skool, homemade snow picket we found on the Eliot Glacier on the north side of Mt. Hood this weekend. It’s a beauty! We were on the glacier practicing high angle rescue techniques and this thing was just laying on the ice on one of the lower ice shelves near the start of the terminal morane.

Like most glaciers, the Eliot is retreating and melting at a rather disturbing rate. My hunch is that this Jive-Ass homemade picket was frozen up there in the glacier for a fairly decent amount of time, until it finally it melted free of its icy grave, sort of like Ötzi the Iceman, the 5,300 year old man who popped out of the Italian Alps in 1991. 

 Ötzi the Iceman (photo: Wikicommons)

Ötzi the Iceman (photo: Wikicommons)

I’m not saying this picket was buried in the ice for anything approaching that amount of time, mind you. I’m thinking maybe a decade or two. This highly speculative hypothesis is supported in some small measure by the 1970s era Chouinard Carabiner attached to it. That thing is an antique. Yvon Chouinard hasn’t sold carabiners since Chouinard Equipment Company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in 1989, due to several product liability lawsuites, and several former employees bought the inventory and founded Black Diamond Equipment

As to the picket itself? It appears to be a rather thin aluminum tube with a hole drilled in the end. Through that hole there is a piece of steel cable formed into a loop with a metal cable crimp. Notice also that the tube is sort of bent. I hope that didn’t happen while someone was hanging from it. 

Location: Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood, Oregon, USA