Girth Hitch that Bolt Hanger!
‘Tis the season to get Jive-Ass Anchor submissions from Smith Rock State Park, apparently. I received this photo, taken last weekend, from several climbing friends. Credit to Eric Kennedy for being the first. And here’s the juicy kicker: several people have pointed out to me that this anchor was constructed by a climbing guide who was teaching clients to climb. Yeesh!
The offense here, of course, is that this ‘guide’ girth hitched a spectra/nylon sling directly to one of the bolt hangers rather than attaching it with a carabiner (like on the other bolt).
And yeah, yeah, okay. It’s just a top rope anchor. No one is going to generate big fall forces. And for top roping or rappelling, girth hitching like this is probably no big deal (unless there is a burr or a sharp edge on that bolt hanger). And it’s tied off with a figure 8, so its redundant, so even if the girth hitch failed the strand attached to the other bolt would still hold. Points all well taken. But it’s a Jive-Ass rock climbing anchor just the same. Wish someone would have asked. Lazy? Out of carabiners? Missed that day at guide school? What?
Location: Smith Rock State Park, Oregon.
Looks like the carabiner on the other hanger isn’t locked, either.
What about those bolt placements? I would say like the anchor set up, just as jive-ass.
On second thought, the bolt on the left looks really poorly placed. Perhaps a biner in there would have caused it to lever against the corner bulge so that’s why it was girth hitched with the sling. Hmmmm?
Hmmmm. Perhaps, but I doubt it.
I agree with Steve T. This is in fact a wise choice, a carabiner on that left bolt would be more dangerous than the girth hitch. There is two locking carabiners opposite and reversed connecting the rope to the redundant sling. I would call this EARNEST in every way, except for the dumb ass bolt placements. Whoever built this had good sense if you ask me.
Girth hitching hangers is a common practice with guides. Nothing crazy about this one except the previously mentioned bolt placements