That’s Just Lazy


Girth Hitch that Bolt Hanger!

Girth Hitch that Bolt Hanger!

‘Tis the season to get Jive-Ass Anchor submissions from Smith Rock State Park, apparently. I received this photo, taken last weekend, from several climbing friends. Credit to Eric Kennedy for being the first. And here’s the juicy kicker: several people have pointed out to me that this anchor was constructed by a climbing guide who was teaching clients to climb. Yeesh!

The offense here, of course, is that this ‘guide’ girth hitched a spectra/nylon sling directly to one of the bolt hangers rather than attaching it with a carabiner (like on the other bolt).

And yeah, yeah, okay. It’s just a top rope anchor. No one is going to generate big fall forces. And for top roping or rappelling, girth hitching like this is probably no big deal (unless there is a burr or a sharp edge on that bolt hanger). And it’s tied off with a figure 8, so its redundant, so even if the girth hitch failed the strand attached to the other bolt would still hold. Points all well taken. But it’s a Jive-Ass rock climbing anchor just the same. Wish someone would have asked. Lazy? Out of carabiners? Missed that day at guide school? What?

Location: Smith Rock State Park, Oregon.

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6 thoughts on “That’s Just Lazy

  1. Steve T

    On second thought, the bolt on the left looks really poorly placed. Perhaps a biner in there would have caused it to lever against the corner bulge so that’s why it was girth hitched with the sling. Hmmmm?

    Reply
    1. Andrew

      I agree with Steve T. This is in fact a wise choice, a carabiner on that left bolt would be more dangerous than the girth hitch. There is two locking carabiners opposite and reversed connecting the rope to the redundant sling. I would call this EARNEST in every way, except for the dumb ass bolt placements. Whoever built this had good sense if you ask me.

      Reply
  2. Axle

    Girth hitching hangers is a common practice with guides. Nothing crazy about this one except the previously mentioned bolt placements

    Reply

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